kz1000p electric tachometer issue

The way I was thinking of measuring the accuracy of the tachometer is by going a certain speed that i know the rpms should be at in a certain gear with my sprocket gearing. Granted, you have to be moving for this to work. I've confirmed that my tachometer works and it reads noticably smoother but I haven't done any actual testing to make sure its functioning correctly because I had to take the transmission out of my car... Ill let you know how the tachometer works tomorrow.

Well, it didnt work. My tachometer is still inaccurate and bounces sometimes... maybe i should look at my ignition coils. I hope I dont have to tear apart my tachometer again.

Okay... I'm stumped. The stupid tach still wobbles sometimes in the higher rev range (5-6k rpm) and is reading low constantly. At 60mph it should be reading 3500rpm but its instead reading 3000rpm. To be fair it didnt do that before I replaced the capacitors (it actually would read too high but only sometimes, other times it read correctly) and I cant understand what the problem could be. If its reading the pulses from the igniter then could my igniter be going out or is it possible my pickup coils are acting funny? If that were the case I'd imagine the engine would be running poorly. I tried to look at the wires for any problems but I couldn't see any. I'm not an electrical kind of guy. I enjoy it, but that doesnt mean I'm good at it! Please help!!!

There should be an adjustment trimmer pot to fine tune it. 

I think i know what you are talking about. I just dont want to possibly mask the problem instead of fixing it especially considering the needle still bounces. It is possible that the problem with the bouncing is vibrations from the motor but i would need to find a way to test that without making my neighbors angry!

I recently chased a similar gremlin. Check *ALL* the plugs and connectors between coils/battery/tach.
My wire colors are black, black/yellow, brown. I had an RPM specific bounce. One of the multi-wire plugs had a flaky connection. That RPM seemed to be perfect somehow to get it to flutter. I pulled the connectors from the plug, scrubbed them clean, closed them all a *tiny* bit, and reassembled. I then used some dielectric grease on the plug to slow down any future corrosion.
My RPM bounce has gone away.

I needed to hear this! I'll be cleaning ALL of my plugs and will be checking the quality of connections. You know what, screw it, ill go through my entire ignition system.

I looked through the entire ignition system and checked all connectors and only two things came up bad: definitely my 1 and 4 spark plug caps (into the megaohm range) and maybe the igniter. My issue with the igniter is that its hard to tell if its ACTUALLY bad or just a poor reading.  
For the male pickup coil connector when I checked the resistance for both possible connections instead of 20-40ish kOhms I got 970 kOhms for both measurements even with checking every possible combination. I assume I need a new igniter? I also had an out-of-spec reading for the red and black/yellow readings but I dont remember what they were. Would a bad igniter cause a weird tachometer reading?

I also fully disassembled the carbs and put in an ultrasonic cleaner, set float heights, yada yada, and im still getting popping out of the exhaust at ALL times even during idle. I thought the problem was the bad spark plug caps but I used different ones and it didnt change the popping, albeit the idle is now smoother. Im just stumped and igniters aren't cheap so I'm wondering in which direction I should go. Only word to describe this bike right now is "endless."