HEAD TORQUE QUESTION

using ape studs i was under the impression that 30 ft/lbs was my final torque, but looking on the back of the packaging, it says 36-42 ft/lbs...i am going to use ape nuts that i bought...i was thinking of going to 35 ft/lbs just to make sure everything is sandwhiched nicely to minimize leaks..
using ape studs and hd nuts, would i be over doing it at 35?......just wondering and would appreiate input from the more experienced....as always thanks........keith

Keith,

Follow the link...

Jay's reply was 36-42 ft/lbs is the recommendation.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...12681&catid=2#212681

Also use search "APE Stud nuts".... Several posting on the subject...

OMR

go with 38 and retorque after motor has run for about 30 minutes and then after a couple hundred miles.make sure to use lube on threads when you assemble.

@ Plummen...

Since I'll be doing the same here on my project next weekend, torque @ 38 I understand...

For the re-torque, stay with 38 as well or slightly higher up to 42?

Also, I like the lube idea... Just plain old grease or something different such as silicon based, lithium based etc...?

Thanks,

OMR

Perhaps too obvious to mention, but the engine should first be allowed to reach normal operating temperature, and then allowed to cool off and be completely cold before torquing down the head nuts (and bolts).

Per FSM (77-79KZ1000) ... first loosen the bolt or nut by half a turn and then tighten to the specified torque.

The FSM is silent about the general proposition of using lube on the threads (unless I missed seeing something about it) to help later assure a more accurate torque setting.

Am happy leaving to others far more qualified any debate or pros and cons about any issue here, or whether there is an issue.

Using grease or a dedicated product such as Neverseize is a good idea imo when applied to a steel bolt running in aluminum threads. As it helps avoid galling reaction beween the different metals. Anyone having broken off an engine cover bolt while attempting to remove it will know why and likely agree.

Sparkplugs are special. As I understand it, new plugs come with a coating of some sort which allows an easy torque and later removal --- once, as it supposedly only works on the initial plug install. So I confess to appling a small dab of moly grease or Neverseize on the sparkplug threads when replacing the plug, especially when replacing a previously installed plug. And in a pinch, have just used a little plain motor oil.

Good Luck!

antiseize,assembly lube,a little oil something to make them spin easier.yes folks there is friction any time you turn a bolt into something i dont care how good the threads are.

thanks guys.......38 it will be

Patton wrote:

Perhaps too obvious to mention, but the engine should first be allowed to reach normal operating temperature, and then allowed to cool off and be completely cold before torquing down the head nuts (and bolts).

Per FSM (77-79KZ1000) ... first loosen the bolt or nut by half a turn and then tighten to the specified torque.

The FSM is silent about the general proposition of using lube on the threads (unless I missed seeing something about it) to help later assure a more accurate torque setting.

I think you need to make sure the nut face and the head are smooth so the nut doesn't drag as you are cranking on it. I didn't use grease, as long as the threads are clean and smooth and the surfaces don't drag, I don't think grease is necessary.

it is always recommended by any of the manufacturs to add some sort of lubricant to the threads when you are torquing them that way you are not fighting any kind of extra friction if you dont beleive that go to arp 's web site and check for your selfs arp is by far the largest manufactur of specilty performance hardware in the world if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me they have alot smarter people working for them then i am. they even go so far as to recommend certain types of lubricants which to use.

yep!

Torque is an indirect way to determine the amount of stretch when bolting things together. The object is to stretch the bolt by a certain amount(about 1/2 of its elastic modulus) as if it were a giant rubberband. Too little and it will work loose-too tight and the bolt will loose its elasticity and/or possibly break. Torgue measurement is resistance to turning generated by friction on the threads and the nut touching the wheel, as a result, the kind and amount of lubrication on the threads is crucial to getting the right value. Proper torque specifications always denote whether the threads are dry, oiled, anti-seized, etc. For example, if torque values are based on dry threads and you use oil, the extra lubrication will lead to over-torquing.

I lifted this from another forum, but it says it all about wet or dry. I believe MOST head specs are wet, and the type of lube is important also.

dman

that is very true like isaid check out arp's site if you want to fill your head with engineering mumbo jumbo it will hurt after you are done at that site.