Teardown

I have a 1977 KZ1000 and, I wanted to go through the motor and, trans to see how everything looks and, also change leaky gaskets. I was wondering if there is anything I should look for or do while I have it apart. I was planning on changing bearings, lapping valves and, possibly going with a 1075 kit. I was also wanting to get a little bit hotter cam but, am not completely sure where to go for that, If anyone has any hotter than stock cams, let me know. I was also going to replace the cam chain(heard that would be a good idea to get something a bit stronger.) and, maybe weld the crank. I have been in the motor before but, I was wondering if the more knowledgeable people could give me a heads up of things to look for so, I can replace everything that needs to be replaced. I am also open for suggestions for performance mods.I was also wondering should I replace my oil pump with an updated one? Thanks

i have a 1075 kit with .395 web cams and 29 smoothbore carbs every time i have any of my motors down to bare bones they get a new cam chain a one piece one none of the master link type don't trust them never will. don't worry about the oil pump just pull it apart and look for major scoring if it is good put it back together and reuse it these engines are roller bearing so they run very low oil pressures in fact so low that you would need a special gauge just to read them properly. if you are in to performance definitly get the crank welded and trued while it is out with the bigger cams i would be a good idea to get some port work done at the same time as well as heavier valve springs and don't fool around lapping the valves get a real valve job done all you do is wear out the valves by lapping them and making the seats wider then needed. put a good ignition on it while your at it . good luck and e-mail me if you have any questions

The oil pressure can be 2.8 to 3 PSI when the engine is at operating temp.

thanks timebomb for all your advice. I am trying to figure out what I can do for good streetable power and, i would like to work with high performance motors so,what better way to learn. I was also wondering about any useful information sources that could help with this endevour. Also if I am going to do all this work where do I find my cams and, cam chain and, all that?

web cams or go to ape they can set you up with every thing you could ever need they might be a bit busy right now with racing season just about to go into full swing but they will be able toget and advise you of every thing your gonna need.ape has complete top end kits that will save you a bunch of cash in the long run and they know what will work for you so check them out.

Just my 2cents, A 30 year old pressed crank should be acessed by some one with the equipment and experiance to proprly determine it's cond.regardless of your' future desires,this is the base. to have it sent out and checked without welding, silly. cyl bores,it costs as much to replace w/stock as to big bore w/out sleeves. why not step up? unless building a monster, and playing the game a 1075 should last it's lifetime. camchain and chicklets/tesnioner blade, definitly. bearing rollers, you must be the judge. at @ $100.00+ a pop for a idler which lives in an oil rich envirnment and has a low load tis hard to justify. i love my Zed. hope you feel same. G

Another bit of cheap insurance is to use the ape studs and have the crank cap machined and get the plate for it. All those parts can be found at the APE site. Build the bottom end strong and when you get bored with the 1075 kit you can step up without a total tear down and rebuild.

gane wrote:

Just my 2cents, A 30 year old pressed crank should be acessed by some one with the equipment and experiance to proprly determine it's cond.regardless of your' future desires,this is the base. to have it sent out and checked without welding, silly. cyl bores,it costs as much to replace w/stock as to big bore w/out sleeves. why not step up? unless building a monster, and playing the game a 1075 should last it's lifetime. camchain and chicklets/tesnioner blade, definitly. bearing rollers, you must be the judge. at @ $100.00+ a pop for a idler which lives in an oil rich envirnment and has a low load tis hard to justify. i love my Zed. hope you feel same. G

Definitely, I was planning on sending the crank out to be true and, welded as well as having the overall condition checked however I have done quite a few motor tear downs and, rebuilds so, I am pretty sue I should be OK for he most part. I appreciate your input and yes, I do love my Zed more than a fat kid loves cake.

timebomb33 wrote:

i have a 1075 kit with .395 web cams and 29 smoothbore carbs every time i have any of my motors down to bare bones they get a new cam chain a one piece one none of the master link type don't trust them never will. don't worry about the oil pump just pull it apart and look for major scoring if it is good put it back together and reuse it these engines are roller bearing so they run very low oil pressures in fact so low that you would need a special gauge just to read them properly. if you are in to performance definitly get the crank welded and trued while it is out with the bigger cams i would be a good idea to get some port work done at the same time as well as heavier valve springs and don't fool around lapping the valves get a real valve job done all you do is wear out the valves by lapping them and making the seats wider then needed. put a good ignition on it while your at it . good luck and e-mail me if you have any questions

Why not lap the valves? The KZ guy i know, Ed Allendorf swears by lapping them.