re-torquing head

I've seen a few discussions here and there, just wondering what results people have seen with re-torquing head nuts to slow/stop leaks.

I've got an 80 kz650 with 13k leaking oil from what appears to be both the head gasket (front of engine) and base gasket (#1 cylinder area).

If not already doing, remember to do the re-torquing of head nuts in the prescribed pattern and while the engine is dead cold.

Good Luck!

One other point - to loosen or not to loosen. I've seen some folks say they just set the wrench and tightened and others have loosened (1/4 turn) and then re-tightened.

THoughts?

More often than not, what appears to be a leaking head gasket is actually seepage from a rubber half moon valve cover plug, or from the tach drive, or from a loose exhaust clamp.

Could clean engine and get it completely dry, then spray foot powder around the potential leak areas, start the engine and watch closely to find exact source of leak.

Good Luck!

alexgehrig wrote:

One other point - to loosen or not to loosen. I've seen some folks say they just set the wrench and tightened and others have loosened (1/4 turn) and then re-tightened.

THoughts?

Can't really explain why, but I like to first just set the wrench and attempt to tighten. Then when it doesn't move, loosen it the 1/4 inch and re-torque.

Good Luck!

A manual I have says to always loosen before re-torquing because of some metal sticking reason or other...

Its apparently the oly way to achieve the higher torque setting.

Whatever works.

alexgehrig wrote:

I've seen a few discussions here and there, just wondering what results people have seen with re-torquing head nuts to slow/stop leaks.

I've got an 80 kz650 with 13k leaking oil from what appears to be both the head gasket (front of engine) and base gasket (#1 cylinder area).

I have a '81 Gpz550 that was leaking oil towards the center of the engine. Tried to re-torque head nuts and they were all tight. Then I marked the nuts location in relation to the head and loosened each nut 1/4 turn and then torqued to specification. Each nut tightened down 1/8 to 1/4 more of a turn compared to where they were originally. I don't see how the head gasket hadn't blown before this. Oil leak has stopped for the moment and hopefully for a long time. This was done several years ago and my bike has 21,000 miles on it now.

Robert

GPz550D1 wrote: "Then I marked the nuts location in relation to the head and loosened each nut 1/4 turn and then torqued to specification."

Did you loosen all nuts 1/4 turn first before re-torquing or did you loosen and re-torque each nut one at a time?

650ed wrote:

GPz550D1 wrote: "Then I marked the nuts location in relation to the head and loosened each nut 1/4 turn and then torqued to specification."

Did you loosen all nuts 1/4 turn first before re-torquing or did you loosen and re-torque each nut one at a time?

I did them one at a time, following the torque sequence that the manual calls for.

It sounds like you had good results with your method GPz, so I hesitate to ask...

My instinct tells me to loosen everything 1/4 as you would if you were removing the head (following proper sequence)and then tighten accordingly.

Thoughts (anyone)?

My only worry would be if you loosened all the bolts at once, the head might shift slightly and then the head gasket wouldn't seal well. I might loosen a few and then snug them back up. After you do that to all bolts, torque in proper sequence.

It is possible to get oil from under the head nuts as well. They have copper crush washers, under them to help seal them..
U loosen the nuts a 1/4 turn , 1 at a time, to relieve stress and retighten. this give a more accurate torque.
i remove then 1 at a time and apply some high heat silicone under the nut and washer,to help seal them, just in case. I hate leaks.
The silicone acts as a lubricant and reduces friction during the torque. this give a more accurate torque .
But i like to go overbored sometimes too.