Stuck Block

My Z1 needs all the gaskets replaced since it is leaking oil. So I am in the process of tearing the engine down and can not seem to get the cylinder block to move. I tried a hammer and piece of wood. Nothing happened, then I tried just the hammer with lighter taps but still nothing happened.

Is there any useful hints on how to get it unstuck?

is there a pry point on bottem of your cylinder? carefull with the fins,although fins on cylinder are tougher than fins on head

I will check that out.

the gasket is acting like a glue or caulk in my opinion and slow circles of tapping with a rubber mallt on the outer -lower edges will get it to come loose enough to tap some soft wood shims in and break the whole cylinder up and free...good luck

craig

Need to get a soft faced hammer seeing how I don't have one. Thanks for the advice. I figured that was what was occurring. The prying did not work because I was not comfortable prying hard enough on it. O well new tool shopping and I hope I can solve this problem because otherwise I will be screwed.

There are two slots right behind the front stud on either side of the upper casing next to the block.

My 750 twin has a pry point to lever with a big screwdriver.

I will try the pry bar thing again tomorrow. It is very stubborn!!!

trianglelaguna wrote:

the gasket is acting like a glue or caulk in my opinion and slow circles of tapping with a rubber mallt on the outer -lower edges will get it to come loose enough to tap some soft wood shims in and break the whole cylinder up and free...good luck

craig

+1
This is excellent advice. Continue to strike with the rubber mallet all the way around the jugs. It may not seem like there is anything happening, but those little hits add up. Sooner or later you'll hear the sound of the hits starting to change. It will come loose shortly after that. Just did this about three days ago on my 1000.

I use a long flat but thick steel bar for Z1 cylinder block removal. I drill two holes near each end that line up with the two 6-mm bolt holes on the top of the Z1's cylinder block. Now this steel bar is thick, some 3/4" which helps far better than a thin one when you start hammering.

I bolt this bar onto the top of the block and use a big rubber/plastic mallet on each bar end alternately, firmly but gently hammering because you don't want to ruin those two 6-mm thread wholes. Ensure that you firmly bolt down the bar onto the block of course.

This tool has always worked for me no matter how sticky the cylinder base gasket is.

Well I went out and found a big pry bar in the garage. Gave it a gently but firm push and what do you know... it popped up with ease. I think all of the hammer taps I did helped loosen it up. But man who would of thought it was on there that good. The manual didnt say anything about how tough it would be. They just said Lightly tap it off.... Hmm makes you think if they actually know what they talking about.